It's like a medieval dining hall. I've ordered the traditional Albanian meal. It's steak and mushroom stew and has been brought to the table in a bowl that is so ridiculously hot that the contents are boiling and so I am typing this whilst it cools.
Thursday, July 10
Kalaja e Rozafes
Rozafes castle is magnificent, a huge site and in really good condition. Perched on the top of the hill it must have been virtually impregnable.
There was a German at the top who spoke to me as I was catching my breath and he obviously spoke good English. I said "why do they always put castles on the top of hills and make them so difficult to get into". And he said in a German accent "it is for defensive reasons, its better to be on the top of ze hill" and then a moment later "ha, zat was an English joke, very funny, we Germans don't always understand ze English humor".
Xhamia e Plumbit
Also called The Lead Mosque. I opened the door to take the picture but I didn't feel comfortable going inside, even though there was no one around, since I am an infidel and I'm not sure what the procedure is. Am I supposed to remove my shoes and wash my feet? Do I cover my head or uncover it?
Hotel
I got off the bus in Shkoder and sat at a cafe drinking espresso whilst searching TripAdvisor and Google for local accommodation and this came up. It's very pretty, most of the rooms are much better than mine, you may be able to see them on the internet, although I've not looked, but I haggled on the price and got a big reduction, however I am in one of the economy rooms at the back.
Its like a museum in the reception and the dining room, stacked with ancient paraphernalia.
Bad news is IT'S STARTED RAINING so I may be eating in their restaurant tonight rather than wandering the streets.
Onwards to Shkoder
A nice journey this time through flat plains with high mountains as a backdrop. Small fields with men and women harvesting crops and heavily laden carts pulled by donkeys. Even the road was decent.