I'm in a restaurant that is quite posh, it's the only one that I've found in Berat that looks suitable. This town, despite being fabulously picturesque, is grindingly poor. There are hardly any tourists, which seems surprising, and I don't think the locals can afford to eat out. I discovered yesterday that the lad in a little café earned 1200 lek for a 12 hour shift. I blew 1000 lek on this meal including two bottles of beer - about £5.70 - but nearly a day's wages is too expensive so they sit in street cafés drinking water and expresso coffee.
I had to use the Google translate app to decipher the menu and, when it arrived the meal was absolutely delicious, the best tasting food I've had, in a restaurant, for a very long time, though that may be the sunshine and holiday effect coupled with the fact that I'd not eaten much since breakfast.